12/11/2005 Entry: "shellfish cowboys"
Dive Log for Day 13: 1st Dive Info: I thought it apropos I finish the French Polynesia entries this weekend. Since an adventure lasting the rest of my life begins no later than Tuesday, it is about time I finish the travelogue on the prior voyage. By Day 13, our trip was really winding down. I had 1 dive left before stopping to meet the suggested 24 hour before flying rules. It wound up being a quiet day. A perfect sea breeze scented dream before returning home to reality. The dive was early this morning, as the log indicates we were in the water by 7:48 am. This morning's dive was a drift dive through the pass. I had one other drift dive experience in Florida, but the Atlantic's current was sluggish. The push today justified the title. Some may really like this type of diving, but I find it disappointing. With the rushing current and dangerous depths below, I found myself focusing more on the necessary safety checks of air, time, and depth than observing the reef passing in front of us. The force of the water was fierce this morning. Our pace along the wall rivaled New York City sidewalks at rush hour; your attention is devoted to the necessities of negotiating the task at hand with little time for casual observation.
Today's Pictures (Day 13, October 30, 2003)
Location: Tiputa Pass, Rangiroa
Time In: 7:48a - 3000 psi Time Out: 8:30a 500 psi
Max Depth: 81 ft Bottom Time: 42 minutes (3 minute safety stop)
Temps - Air: 82 F Surface: 80F Bottom: 79F
Visibility: 50 ft
Outside of another massive school of barracuda the dive itself was uneventful. It was a great opportunity to practice your diving skills though. Keeping the group together and at close intervals turned out to be a difficult chore for the divemaster and the four of us who decided to follow his pre-dive instructions of "remain close to me at all times." Whether a lackadaisical attitude or lack of experience caused the separation, the resulting laborious depth and directional changes ate up precious time and air. The computer once again proved it worthiness. It simplified the safety process enabling me to quickly check the important figures and then return my attention to staying with the group the best I could.
As the current indicated below, the seas were choppy when we returned to the surface to reload the zodiac. Considering they could only guess at our surface location, the zodiac was quick to spot our signal flag and pick us up. Even though this wasn't the last dive I'd hoped for while in Rangiroa, I was glad for an opportunity to practice my skills. If I want to continue to dive for years to come, safety practice is a necessity.
As it turns out, I was just one dive too short. I later found out that on the afternoon dive in the pass, the divers were joined by a pod of bottlenose dolphins. You've never seen a set of more talkative and excited divers in your life. They told of the curious and graceful dance in and out of the divers the dolphins performed. Gently gliding by you for a quick once over, and then a dash several yards out to look back at the group as a whole -- clicking and twirling to the delight of the divers lucky enough to experience their show. While I wish I'd been one of the divers, I'm more excited for the chance to see the same someday. I equate it a lot to the experience of fishing for many people. Catching the big one is always great, but just getting the chance can be even better!
After lunch, we took in our final tour of the islands with a trip to a black pearl farm. Once again, it was more a sales pitch than a tour, but that is to be expected. It was interesting to get to hear how the oysters are seeded and the life cycle of the pearl itself. The reality of the situation is they want you to wander around the sales counter while you patiently wait 30 or so minutes for the hotel shuttle to arrive for your return journey.
As you can see from the pictures, the facility was primeval and set up to meet only the basic requirements. The tour consisted of looking over a short wooden fence at the workers planting the seeds and sitting at a short table while the guide pointed out the anatomy of an oyster. 5 minute tour and 40 minutes in the gift shop -- a retailer's paradise. Don't get me wrong. The hard sell here is much different than what we experience in the states - far less aggressive. And, you can't blame them for trying. Their sparse livelihood is driven by convincing tourists to purchase their wares.
There isn't much more to tell about this rest of this day. We spent it packing and preparing for the trip home. We snuck in a little time for a drink or two by the pool of course. The next morning, we'd jump on the shuttle and make our way back to the Texas through Tahiti and Los Angeles.

